♠ A K Q 7 5 4 3 ♥ 4 ♦ 8 ♣ 8 4 3 2 |
I never quite know what to do with these hands. I suppose one could argue for 1S, 3S, or 4S.
Why 1S?
- For those who like the rule of 20 (which says to add your HCP to the sum of the lengths of your two longest suits, and if you reach 20, then you can open) or the rule of 15 (which says to add your HCP to your number of spades, and if you reach 15, then you can open), this meets both.
- You certainly have a comfortable 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rebid, if necessary.
- It is possible that 1S will serve as a preemptive bid and keep the opponents out of the auction when they have the bulk of the points. However, given that the opponents will likely be short in spades, they may bid on distribution anyway. Now, 3S would be more of a preempt, though it would advertise that you are a weaker hand.
- Two singletons and a side 4-card suit are very attractive.
- 1S gives partner more room to describe his hand. Afterall, preempts can also preempt partner.
Why 3S? Excellent 7-card suit and 5-10 points, just like the card says.
Why 4S? This really shuts the opponents out if partner is bust. Plus, it would have a play opposite as little as
xx
Axxx
xxx
KJxx
I chose to open 3S, which was probably the worst choice of the 3 bids. On some nights it could be right, of course, but not this time. Partner held
♠ 8 2
♥ K 7 5 2
♦ A K Q 10 6
♣ J 5
but understandably passed, and 4S was cold. Every other table in the room was in 4S, too! So, fellow players, please let me know. Did you open 1S (which will surely get you to 4)? Did you open 3S and still got to 4S? Or did you just open 4S?